Originally posted by Turbosystems
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Adjustable rear beam???
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Originally posted by SCS j1mbo View PostThe Ahmed beam is much quicker to set up, tap the jont back/forward for toe, it's very easy
why don't you use an eccentric bolt system like I do, super accurateLast edited by Turbosystems; 18-06-2012, 12:04:51.For Marital advice please don't call me on 07587188434
for performance tuning feel free to call at any sociable hour
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Originally posted by SCS j1mbo View PostThe Ahmed beam is much quicker to set up, tap the jont back/forward for toe, it's very easy
However, I would say that for a road car, it's not really worth it - you shouldn't be driving hard enough to notice the difference on the road, as it requires you to be leaning on the front end grip VERY hard.
As to Dave saying he didn't notice the difference, he is forgetting our little battle (still one of my favourites) - his car with a standard beam but full slicks (which allow for much more corner grip (which the 6° rear beam provides)) -v- my car on fully treaded Dunlop Super-sport tyres - there was nothing in it (the beam countering out the extra grip that the slicks provided).
Yet, Justin who had R888s (but a standard beam at the time) and 40bhp more than us, better gearing and a faster gear-change (R&D dog box), got left behind (complaining of horrendous push-on understeer, which is what the standard beam causes on track) .
Also when the car slides from the rear, with a standard rear beam, it will fish-tail (to the extent that people normally end up crashing the cars - see the red one recently - I'd lay money this is what happened), where a car with a 6° rear beam slides progressively and is very easy to "save", as it doesn't fish-tail anywhere near as aggressively (with the correct geometry settings).Mike Rainbird
Click above - Sarcasm is just a free service I provide.
http://www.rsnorfolk.co.uk/
Nordschleife, there's only two barriers to worry about - the ones on the left and the ones on the right .
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Originally posted by Tarmac Terrorist View PostA little of subject. So without an adjustable rear beam how do I get my alignments adjusted and corrected.
Also you can use shims to get rid of some of the toe angle, check out mikes website.
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Originally posted by punton.bhp View PostMine was unreal could not believe the difference mine made when harv put it in it got much better grip and did not go side ways on every cornerMike Rainbird
Click above - Sarcasm is just a free service I provide.
http://www.rsnorfolk.co.uk/
Nordschleife, there's only two barriers to worry about - the ones on the left and the ones on the right .
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Originally posted by AJC View PostWill, I was always under the impression your saff was a 4x4
Steve, if it doesn't go sideways as much it's certainly not for me!! Lol
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Originally posted by Mike Rainbird View PostI've had both styles (Ahmed and Zoo), and I can confirm that my geometry guy prefers the Ahmed beam to set-up - it is MUCH easier (you're not fighting against the changes you have already made, meaning one movement puts the other out). although the eccentric bolt sounds a good idea .
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no amount of adjustability will fix that one
we also do an eccentric bolt sperical joint conversion on the front tca's instead of powerflex or welded up dodgy arms
we use a proper spherical bush joint like the rear arms have std which replaces the std rubber then we make it adjustable with an eccentric cam and bolt
Fook me I impress myself more and more every dayFor Marital advice please don't call me on 07587188434
for performance tuning feel free to call at any sociable hour
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Originally posted by Turbosystems View Postwe also do an eccentric bolt sperical joint conversion on the front tca's instead of powerflex or welded up dodgy arms
we use a proper spherical bush joint like the rear arms have std which replaces the std rubber then we make it adjustable with an eccentric cam and bolt
Fook me I impress myself more and more every daysigpic
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