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we charge more to set up the ahmed beam due to the slide adjustment for the toe
we can convert them to an eccentric adjuster which is much better and a far more accurate way of doing it
Cost depends on how far out the whole car is including ride heights and front geometry as well as set back which is not adjustable on single jointed beams
Which beam do you have
you would be best to call me
The Ahmed beam is much quicker to set up, tap the jont back/forward for toe, it's very easy
The Ahmed beam is much quicker to set up, tap the jont back/forward for toe, it's very easy
tap it forward, oh shit to far tap it back again, oh shit to far oh fuck it that'll do lol
why don't you use an eccentric bolt system like I do, super accurate
Last edited by Turbosystems; 18-06-2012, 12:04:51.
For Marital advice please don't call me on 07587188434
for performance tuning feel free to call at any sociable hour
The Ahmed beam is much quicker to set up, tap the jont back/forward for toe, it's very easy
I've had both styles (Ahmed and Zoo), and I can confirm that my geometry guy prefers the Ahmed beam to set-up - it is MUCH easier (you're not fighting against the changes you have already made, meaning one movement puts the other out). although the eccentric bolt sounds a good idea .
However, I would say that for a road car, it's not really worth it - you shouldn't be driving hard enough to notice the difference on the road, as it requires you to be leaning on the front end grip VERY hard.
As to Dave saying he didn't notice the difference, he is forgetting our little battle (still one of my favourites) - his car with a standard beam but full slicks (which allow for much more corner grip (which the 6° rear beam provides)) -v- my car on fully treaded Dunlop Super-sport tyres - there was nothing in it (the beam countering out the extra grip that the slicks provided).
Yet, Justin who had R888s (but a standard beam at the time) and 40bhp more than us, better gearing and a faster gear-change (R&D dog box), got left behind (complaining of horrendous push-on understeer, which is what the standard beam causes on track) .
Also when the car slides from the rear, with a standard rear beam, it will fish-tail (to the extent that people normally end up crashing the cars - see the red one recently - I'd lay money this is what happened), where a car with a 6° rear beam slides progressively and is very easy to "save", as it doesn't fish-tail anywhere near as aggressively (with the correct geometry settings).
Mike Rainbird Click above - Sarcasm is just a free service I provide.
A little of subject. So without an adjustable rear beam how do I get my alignments adjusted and corrected.
Rear is not adjustable as std, but you can make small changes by slotting the std beam to allow the pickups to move , then using big washers tack welded to keep them in place.
Also you can use shims to get rid of some of the toe angle, check out mikes website.
Will, I was always under the impression your saff was a 4x4
Steve, if it doesn't go sideways as much it's certainly not for me!! Lol
I know what you mean but sideways loose time on track and still goes sideways just have to try harder i try not to use the word harder when mike is around if you know what i mean
I've had both styles (Ahmed and Zoo), and I can confirm that my geometry guy prefers the Ahmed beam to set-up - it is MUCH easier (you're not fighting against the changes you have already made, meaning one movement puts the other out). although the eccentric bolt sounds a good idea .
.
When we are discussing rear beams we don't bother mentioning the zoo pooh one
no amount of adjustability will fix that one
we also do an eccentric bolt sperical joint conversion on the front tca's instead of powerflex or welded up dodgy arms
we use a proper spherical bush joint like the rear arms have std which replaces the std rubber then we make it adjustable with an eccentric cam and bolt
Fook me I impress myself more and more every day
For Marital advice please don't call me on 07587188434
for performance tuning feel free to call at any sociable hour
we also do an eccentric bolt sperical joint conversion on the front tca's instead of powerflex or welded up dodgy arms
we use a proper spherical bush joint like the rear arms have std which replaces the std rubber then we make it adjustable with an eccentric cam and bolt
Fook me I impress myself more and more every day
tap it forward, oh shit to far tap it back again, oh shit to far oh fuck it that'll do lol
why don't you use an eccentric bolt system like I do, super accurate
Only someone very simple will hit it too hard as to knock it back then forward etc
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