6 degree rear beams

[dunccoss]

Right i am about to fit mine and would like to know how to part set it up so i can then get it set up plus what should i set it to for the road ? and lastly anyone had any problems with theres as in didnt like the way it felt / drive once fitted and what difference should i feel on the road

cheers
dunc

[fordrallycar]

I would love a 6 degree beam mate Your best bet duncan is talk to wil his user name is RWD_cossie_ wil
or i can p/m you his number
Cheers Paul

[Paul RS]

When i fitted mine, it felt softer than the original beam, but i'm putting that down to the GGR beam mounting kit being removed in favour of polybushes? Deffo feels more planted and doesn't have the tendancy for the rear to snap out like my original beam did.

As for fitting hassles, the only problem i had was with the exhaust hangers hitting the beam as it sits lower due to the rose joints. Swift bash with a hammer sorted the exhaust mounts out

Best bet it to take your car to a geomitry specialist once the beams in and get them to set it. If you have coilovers make sure they are set height wise before you do this

[dunccoss]

When i fitted mine, it felt softer than the original beam, but i'm putting that down to the GGR beam mounting kit being removed in favour of polybushes? Deffo feels more planted and doesn't have the tendancy for the rear to snap out like my original beam did.

As for fitting hassles, the only problem i had was with the exhaust hangers hitting the beam as it sits lower due to the rose joints. Swift bash with a hammer sorted the exhaust mounts out

Best bet it to take your car to a geomitry specialist once the beams in and get them to set it. If you have coilovers make sure they are set height wise before you do this

cheers paul do you know what it should be set at ? and which beam have you got ?

[Paul RS]

Mines an SCS/Ahmed beam. I still need to get mine setup properly for my car (i left the settings steven had done on his esc cos) but figured its best waiting til i put decent suspension on the car!

I'd say a tyre fitters would be able to set it roughly for you, just so it doesn't shed your tyres?

[POLARIS ESCOS]

When i fitted the stage 2 beam to father in laws saph we took it back to adrenaline to be set up and they set the coilovers up at the same time think they charged 100 + vat to do it

[Dan@RapidFord]

I'm just off out to get a curry after I eat it I'll relpy to this post.

[dunccoss]

cheers dan and others and look forward to what you have to say

[spiritof'76]

Was given these settings by Mike when i wanted to get my geo checked after getting the car. I presume they relate to a car with Ahmed beam as Mike knew my car had one.

Front:
Toe-IN: 2mm overall (aim for 1mm each side).
Camber: Depends on use? 1.5° ( = 1° 30') negative for road, 2.5° (= 2° 30') negative for track.
Caster: As close to 3.5° ( = 3°30') as you can get (a little more won't hurt).

Rear:
Toe-IN: 3mm overall (aim for 1.5mm each side).
Camber: Depends on use? 1.25° (= 1°15') negative for road, 2.25° (= 2°15') negative for track.
__________________

[Dan@RapidFord]

Right here goes if you see any glaring mistakes or it doesn't make sence point it out and I'll correct it as typing on computers isn't my strong point

To start set the all rose joints equally by sight or use ruler before fitting it to the car,

This makes it easier once its fitted to the car and also helps you to get both sides of the car the same length.

BEFORE YOU START MEASURE THE DISTANCE FROM THE FRONT WHEEL TO THE BACK WHEEL ON BOTH SIDES TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE EQUAL AS THIS WILL MAKE THE WHOLE PROCESS A WASTE OF TIME If its wrong this is called wedge where the car is favoured turning one way over the other i.e for oval racers

To set the camber at home you need a protractor and a square board and a flat floor.

Board with a straight edge the height of the tyre put a nail about 10 to 15 cms from the top, tie a string with a small weight on the end stand the board on the ground. Put the board against the edge of the tyre flat on the floor and the string should be parallel to the edge of the board i.e zeroed. Mark this on the board.

Then tip the board so its leaning against the wheel and mark the board where the line resting remove it and use the protractor to measure the the angle which gives you the camber.

to measure the toe is a little more difficult but still possible.

get 4 weighted stands and put them at the 4 corners of the car and wrap a string around it to make a square around the car. Measure off the centre badges of the 4 wheels to make the string say 20cms (make it a easy figure to work from dont use 17cm for example) all around the car measure the distance between the string at the front and rear of the car to make sure the strings are parallel down the length of the car.

Then you can measure off the string to the front and rear of the rear tyres which will give you the toe of each wheel (you can also do the front wheels with this method)

the problem with taking it to a "normal" tyre fitter with a hunter machine is they will basicly point each wheel forward with no regard to the length of the wheelbase, so you could end up with one side longer than the other but all the "numbers" will be right. The stg2 beam the inner and outer joint will move the wheel backwards and forwards in the arch.

Also don't measure off the bodywork or bumper as that doesn't work beacuse they aren't constant.

If you make adjustments you have to roll the car forwards 6 foot then back 6 foot then lastly and most importantly forwards 6 foot then re measure.

Try not to lift the car as you are pushing it as it affects the readings would be better getting another person to push on the other side with you. Once you start this don't sit in or lean on the car as it affects the readings too.

I could tell you how to DIY corner weight the car with a jack its not 100% but it deffinatly helps.

[The Radman]

not surprised you had your tea first dan

[dunccoss]

thanks for that i will book it in when i am ready then

[Dan@RapidFord]

I had to rush off as Emily just had the biggest tantrum ever head butting the floor because I didn't take her up to bed cos i was writing it

to add.....

I have a stg1 beam on my car as I feel the issue is with the camber not so much the toe

When I first fitted my beam I set it to 1.5 degrees of camber then I lowered the back of the car 15mm and the camber went up to 1.8 degrees which I reset to 1.4 Degrees of camber

There aren't any magic setting that suit everyone as it how it feels to you and how you like to drive so you could set it up to the factory settings at your desired ride height and work off those rather than using somebody elses figures.

I find my car turns in better on roundabouts as the weight doesn't move to the back end when you turn in as with a std beam the wheel kinda moves away from the ground as it gains camber which then makes that rear side of the car drop which doesn't give you much confidence in the car as you think its gonna broadside.

and lastly you'll go down your favorite test road that you "think" you drive well and fast on and you realise you weren't it will give you a lot more confidence in the car IMO.

Cheers

[Dan@RapidFord]

thanks for that i will book it in when i am ready then

It sounds complicated but it really isnt have a go so the car is mobile and I'm sure you won't bother getting somebody else to do it.

and also you will be able to make changes yourself at trackside

*Actually IIRC you have some 4 post ramps you could tie the string to the posts and measure off them and minus off the distance from the wheel centres to get the measurements.

[dunccoss]

It sounds complicated but it really isnt have a go so the car is mobile and I'm sure you won't bother getting somebody else to do it.

and also you will be able to make changes yourself at trackside

trackside i will get it rolling and all pointing about right and then see about getting it sort as i dont want it doing what it shouldnt be doing at 170mph + do i